Rock Hall. 1707. Known as the Pearl of the Chesapeake, this precious little gem of a fishing village was also historically an important tobacco port-of-call, as well as a key ferry terminal for colonists crossing the Chesapeake Bay, including, of course, George Washington. Good call, George. Quaint and quiet Rock Hall and the more bustling St. Michaels to the south are virtually equidistant from the Bay Bridge, yet if you’d really like to rediscover life on the Eastern Shore the way it used to be, to encounter a true, close-knit sense of community—population 1,310 at the 2010 census—then set out for a few hours from Northern Virginia and take the National Chesapeake Scenic Byway north to this pristine peninsula. Or navigate your way by sail into sheltered Rock Hall Harbor and its many marinas.
Just outside town on a gently winding country road, you’ll find the inimitable Inn at Huntingfield Creek. Your gracious inn owners and hosts Jim and Joanne Rich invite you to discover their 70-acre waterfront farm, forty of which are planted with soybeans. Select from among five cozy inn rooms and seven upscale cottages scattered about the property. Just past the rock sculptures, you will arrive at the Zen Cottage, awash in earth tones of beige, sage, and tawny yellow. Take a deep breath. You’re home.
The Zen den is perfectly appointed with natural bamboo floors, recessed lighting, and a leather sofa that converts neatly to a futon. Also enjoy the contemporary two-sided fireplace from the oversized spa bath. Just add some Hydro Therapies moisturizing aromatherapy fragrance, such as peppermint eucalyptus or rosemary citrus, and wash away the day. As the innkeepers like to say, this is a place that is “invigorating to the soul.”
The fully equipped kitchen has everything you need—and nothing you don’t. Fire up the Smoky Joe barbecue grill, and relax in the Adirondack chairs on your own secluded deck backing to farm fields. Steps away, beside the inn, let your cares drift away on the wind from the nostalgic rope tree swing or Pawley’s Island hammock—and begin to dream.
This is a place that reveals itself little by little, and lets you do the same. Linger in one of my favorite spaces at the inn – the quirky, cool, laid-back reclaimed cherrywood-paneled (even the ceiling) porch library. Books abound. Clearly the owners are bibliophiles! Refresh with a beer or a Cabernet Franc Carmenère from Chile under a ceiling fan and while away the afternoon or usher in the dusk. An amiable hound may stop in to check on you. Or you may wish to lounge outside by the trickling fountain on an enchanting evening and count the stars. One by one by one. There’s time.
Welcome the morning after some rewarding shut-eye in a king-sized bed of cumulus effect, and stroll the grounds past fields of sassafras and sunflowers. Take a moment to appreciate the woodside pond and pergola garden. Then wander back over to the elegant main house, complete with fine art and grand piano, for a hearty communal breakfast served up with a heaping helping of hospitality and garden-fresh fare, and you just might pick up some great travel tips from other friendly guests.
I like to think of it as luxury summer camp. Find your inner explorer. It doesn’t take long. Meander down the grassy path between the soybean fields and continue through the pine stands past the blue bottle tree until you reach the dock at secluded Huntingfield Creek. We were even startled by a tiny baby snapping turtle along our way!
Greet the dawn, grab a kayak at the edge of the marsh, and take to the water. Be serenaded by graceful seabirds as you glide over kelp beds along this inlet that leads right into the Chesapeake Bay. You might even see fishermen tossing crab pots out of their boats, as Rock Hall is a working harbor with an active fleet of commercial watermen. Return in the evening to hear a full orchestra of the waterside nature sounds of the night.
They have two great cruising bikes you can ride too, in the shed with the old sign that reads Huntingfield Manor from long ago. Right beside the shed is the Crystal Barn, which is adorned with chandeliers and opens up to lavender fields. In the fall, they surround the fire pit just outside with hay bales, so grab a marshmallow and settle in. But for now, take a spin past vast cornfields with the breeze blowing through your hair. You might just be up for a refreshing dip in the saltwater pool upon your return. It’s just behind the white-picket-fence-enclosed organic garden with its rainbow zinnias, heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, and blackberry bushes for Joanne’s Very Berry Breakfast Bread Pudding. And when your serene retreat is complete, you will not want to leave. But you can always find your way back. It will be just as you left it – except for maybe a few unexpected and whimsical surprises. Come back and find out for yourself.
The Inn at Huntingfield Creek
4928 Eastern Neck Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
410.639.7779
www.huntingfield.com
Not to be missed is Blue Crab Chesapeake Charters, which leaves from Sharp Street Pier at Waterman’s Crab House, www.bluecrabcharters.com, 410-708-1803. Capt. Mark Einstein and First Mate Suzanne will take you out on the bay in one of their sailing sloops for a day sail, sunset cruise, full moon cruise, or on a romantic getaway to an overnight destination on the Crab Royale. “She’s a beauty,” beams the amicable Capt. Mark, aptly describing the fine vessel. And $35 for a 1½ hour sailing tour (gratuity appreciated) with up to six guests per boat has to be the best deal on the bay, especially with one drink included. You don’t even need binoculars to spot cormorants and osprey in their nests on the pilings as you take the helm or just relax if you wish. Starting in 2017, Capt. Mark is soon to take to the high seas on his Island Girl, running charters out of St. Thomas to St. John, Jost Van Dyke, Norman Island, and Virgin Gorda. Smooth sailing, Captain.
All this sea air is sure to work up an appetite. Four Sirens Restaurant, 5757 Main St., 410-639-9400, is a local place in town featuring the fresh produce of the many surrounding Maryland farms and the bounty of the Chesapeake Bay. The name hails from chef/owner Jay Reed’s beautiful family, including his wife and three precious young daughters. Perhaps his little son may become Triton. Try a pan-fried rockfish sandwich, delicately balanced with house-made roasted red pepper aioli.
“Don’t mess with rockfish,” says Chef Jay, who has a respect for the inherent flavor of the ingredients. Similarly, Chef Jay could be considered a crab cake purist. His crab cakes include little more than crabmeat and the egg needed to bind it together, ideal for those seeking the purest rendition of this Maryland classic, as well as those on the search for gluten-free options. A showcase of Maryland’s ingredients is on display in his Pan-seared Rockfish with Corn and Tomato Relish. Pan-seared Salmon over Grits with balsamic reduction is yet another tempting offering. Savory are the grits flavored with salt, pepper, butter, mozzarella, and Monterey Jack. Other favorites include pan-seared scallops and tuna steak. Afterwards, maybe head next door to the Mainstay, a happening spot for live music set in a 100-year-old building.
Bay Wolf, 410-639-7434, is the rustic tavern restaurant just past the only blinking light in town. Replete with European charm, the main room still retains the original stained glass windows from its former existence as a chapel. Chef Larry Sunkler met his wife Hildegard (Hildy) when he was at culinary school in her native Salzburg, Austria, hence the authentic Austrian specialties on the menu, which include the much-acclaimed Wiener Schnitzel, as well as Schweinbraten mit Knödel, pork with dumpling, complete with sauerkraut. Larry and Hildy run their respected establishment with efficiency and warmth. Duck salad is a standout, and if rockfish is on the menu, Chef Larry—who has a commercial fishing license—caught it himself. Desserts reflect the Old World as well with apple strudel, German Black Forest cake, and blackberry cobbler. Guten Appetit!
The welcome sign to Rock Hall declares, “Nice People Live Here.” Another sign in town near Waterman’s displays the nature of the townspeople with a witty twist on the slogan with this jestful sentiment. “Be nice or go home.”
“Rock Hall is a very special place. It’s one of the only places I know where people arrange playdates for their dogs!” giggles jovial Rock Hall resident Marti Maxwell. This good-humored mindset generates a steady conversion of weekenders to permanent residents.
And events throughout the year continue to lure visitors who long for the water. Rock Hall was voted “Best of the Bay” for its Fourth of July fireworks and festivities. The Pirates & Wenches Fantasy Weekend—one of the more popular draws—was started by Capt. Mark and his wife Suzanne. The committee meets in the legendary Crow’s Nest at harbor’s edge to organize this multi-day event which takes place each August. According to the Ship’s Log & Chart, you can partake in rum tasting at the Inn at Osprey Point, where they serve up gumbo and other grub, or perhaps a Sea Shanty Sing-Along, the Buccaneer’s Ball, or a favorite of many—like longtime locals Marti and Chris Maxwell—the Caribbean Beach Party with music from the Island Vibes. This weekend of raucous and spirited festivities for adventurers of all ages looks to celebrate ten swashbuckling years this summer. Come decked out as a buccaneer and you may well impress the judges and pick up some very fine bling as ransom, even for those over 13. Trust me. It could happen.
Fall Fest, on October 7-8, brings forth music and crafts, and also coincides with the fundraiser for St. Martin Ministries, of which Joanne of Huntingfield Creek is the retiring chair of the board. They assist with the largest operation of food distribution to those in need on the Eastern Shore as well as a women and children’s residential program to help them move forward on a positive new footing.
Next up. Ring in the new year with the Rock Hall Crawl & Fireworks Display on December 31. The hardier among us even venture forth like polar bears to the icy water to participate in the Rock Hall Dip on New Year’s Day, proceeds from which benefit the local firehouse. Once again, all for one and one for all in Rock Hall. Bravo!
Just five miles due south is the Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge, an important nature tourism destination and impressive land-use model within the Chesapeake Bay watershed through its sustainable agriculture, and wetland restoration. Directly on the migratory path of snowy egrets and tundra swans, and peregrine falcons, the refuge is also home to the great blue heron, Canada goose, revered southern bald eagle, and 237 other bird species. But who’s counting?
Situated at the confluence of the Chester River and the Chesapeake Bay, this island refuge encompasses 2,285 acres and provides exceptional opportunities for hiking, biking, and birdwatching. The Bayview Butterfly Trail leads to discover intricately patterned butterflies such as the protographium marcellus, or zebra swallowtail. The Bayscapes Garden utilizes conservation landscaping with native plants to create diversity, provide natural habitat, and conserve that all-important resource—water—which here is collected from barrels on the roof of the original Cape Chester House. Keep an eye peeled for the electricity-generating wind turbine and solar renewable energy panels, further decreasing the carbon footprint, protecting the earth for future generations. Explore the seven unique trails which lead through brackish tidal marsh, natural ponds, upland forest, and grassland, all part of this remarkable nearby environmental sanctuary—a treasure for today and many tomorrows.
Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge
1730 Eastern Neck Road
Rock Hall, MD 21661
410-639-7056
EasternNeck@fws.gov
