A weekend getaway to the Shenandoah – just two hours from our nation’s capital – reveals a slice of another life. Here talented artisans and free spirits are tucked on both sides of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, pursuing their craft while living the dream.
Central Coffee Roasters (11836 Lee Highway, Sperryville) perks just the right brew to start the day. Margaret Rogers roasts beans gathered from the furthest reaches of the world while pursuing her artistic endeavors as a printmaker. And she’s brought coffee to an art form, as well.
Trail mixes and granola are also available, and you may want to buy some to nibble on when hiking Old Rag – it rises to 3,268 feet in nearby Shenandoah National Park.
Glassworks Gallery (11774 Lee Highway, Sperryville) is a visual treat. First of all, any place with a bright red suspension bridge is wicked cool. Step across the bridge – sans troll underneath –and into the world of glassblower Eric Kvarnes.
In addition to bowls, vessels and jewelry by Kvarnes, the gallery features pottery, woodwork, metalwork, photography, poetry and stained glass by the artists of Oldway Art Center.
The artful display of quilts on the front porch may lure you into Beech Spring Gift Shop (11600 Lee Highway), but one of the region’s largest quilt emporiums is so much more. This family-owned business has been around for five generations, purveying baskets, stained glass, Polish pottery, jewelry and jams to travelers on the way to the park.
Copper Fox Distillery (9 River Lane, Sperryville), resides beyond an unassuming exterior in the River District. Here Rick Wasmund cooks up American single malt whiskey, one batch at a time.
A tour of the works gives you a glimpse behind the scenes and a peek inside Rick’s brain. You’ll follow tales of his adventures – from inspiration through internship and up to the production of a national award winner. Tours are given on-the-hour on Fridays and by appointment on other days; the distillery is closed on Sundays.
Hop next door for tapas and traditional Spanish fare in the stylishly renovated barn dubbed Rappahannock Central. The laid-back vibe of El Quijote (3 Liver Lane), in a 1930s fruit-packing house, makes corrugated steel feel warm and fuzzy.
Sharing Rappahannock Central is food for the soul in the galleries of River District Arts. This collective of more than a dozen artists working on-site bears more than a passing resemblance to Alexandria’s Torpedo Factory.
Continuing west on Lee Highway/Route 211 will bring you directly to the Thornton Gap entrance of Shenandoah National Park (Mile 31.5), where a pass may be purchased for $15. Humidity and heat peel away with the climb south on Skyline Drive.
The park offers two lodges that combine rustic appeal with modern amenities: Skyland Resort and Big Meadows Lodge. Both feature tap rooms with live entertainment and dining rooms that serve regional dishes such as fried chicken and blackberry cobbler.
Once a private mountain resort established in the late 1800s, Skyland Resort (Mile 41.7) is undergoing extensive renovations while retaining the ambiance of the past century. Ask for one of the new rooms and enjoy completed updated baths and super-comfy beds. But don’t sleep in!
Early birds hit the trail just after breakfast for hikes ranging from easy to challenging, with some leading up to waterfalls or into the forest. Pack plenty of water and wear proper shoes, even for a morning jaunt. Skyland’s Grab n’ Go packs box lunches for hikers.
Big Meadows Lodge (Mile 51.2) was built in 1939 from stones cut out of Massanutten Mountain; wormy chestnut wood adds to the traditional coziness of the place. Nearby Byrd Visitor Center provides exhibits and trail maps, along with information on park activities.
Moving on down to the western valley, a visit to White Oak Lavender Farm (5060 Newcomer Lane, Harrisonburg) lowers blood pressure and elevates spirits.
A tour of the farm departs from the gift shop, where Zen-like tranquility fills the air along with heady scents and New Age music.
White Oak’s menagerie is ridiculously cute. Pardoned turkeys, fluffy sheep and miniature horses share acreage with full-size equines and alpacas. Children can enter the Rabitat and cuddle Flemish Giants, a docile breed of bunny.
The farm tour lasts about an hour and includes the opportunity to pick 20 stems of lavender, so you can bring that peaceful, easy feeling home with you. Lavender usually blooms throughout the summer in Virginia. Call (540) 421-6345 before visiting for times of tours and an update on the status of the blooms.
Headed back home the way you came? Detour off Lee Highway/Route 211 and wind down at Gadino Cellars (92 Schoolhouse Road, Washington). The expansive deck grants views of both the vineyards and the mountains, making this an optimal vantage point from which to survey this land of recreational opportunity.
Inside you’ll sample Italian -inspired wines ranging from Pinot Grigio to Delfino Rosso. Just $7 gets you seven generous pours, along with happy talk about grapes in a tasting room that’s decorated with flags from Palio di Siena. As an added bonus, you’ll get to keep the glass as a souvenir of our whirlwind tour of the Shenandoah Region.
