Once upon a time, there was a magical and charming inn called Hillbrook, and it was very, very good indeed.
Yes, once upon a time, there was indeed a charming little inn called Hillbrook, hidden in the mysterious wilderness of West Virginia, but as fortune would have it, you don’t have to go back in time to get there. Just head out Route 7 to the bucolic Scenic Byways, wander a little further over hill and dale past the woodlands and craggy rock outcroppings so typical of the rugged West Virginia landscape, and before you know it, you’ll realize you’ve already arrived, in about an hour – not a century – at the magical Hillbrook Inn & Spa. The long gravel lane will further slow your pace – and your pulse – but it might just speed up your imagination. It’s so refreshing you might want to do it twice.
As you approach the Main House, you will be greeted by an idyllic little pond edged by reeds and cattails. It almost winks at you. Hillbrook is a living, breathing fairy tale, with its stately English Tudor manor, perfect for romance, a transporting spa experience, quintessential tranquility, or even a memorable mother-daughter getaway. Imagine, if you will, arriving by coach or horse carriage. I know the children can. Let their imaginations soar; let their feet roam. Play a giant game of chess, loll away the time in a hammock, or skip over a quaint curved bridge. Swing on a tree swing from a giant walnut tree at the edge of Bullskin Run, which leads to the ivy-covered Spring House constructed back in the 1700s, but which provided spring water to Hillbrook up until 2005. Just beyond the fence, you’ll discover a horse grazing quietly in the pasture beyond.
Hillbrook Inn cascades down a natural limestone ridge like a babbling brook meandering playfully down a hillside. Set on 17 acres – 30 acres total across three properties where you can also choose to stay (tough choice) – its half-timbered façades of stucco and stone masonry, steep gabled roofs with dormers, and multiple chimneys belie its Tudor influence. Adorned throughout with European furnishings and art, Hillbrook is elegant, refined, timeless…
Marcy Deck, resident innkeeper, lovingly articulates that Hillbrook is “refined without losing the heart and soul of the place. Everybody takes care of it as if it’s our own. And they take care of the guests as if they’re family too.” This is a place you never want to leave. In fact, just this October, Innkeepers Carissa and Chris Zanella celebrated 10 years at Hillbrook…
and counting.
The first owner, General Frank Bamford, was originally mesmerized by the guiles of Tudor style while in Normandy, France after the First World War, and his treasured estate was constructed during the 1920s. Some of the original Model T Fords were once parked in the garage which is now the tavern, as General Bamford and Henry Ford were lifelong friends. Seek out hidden nooks, narrow passageways, and winding staircases; devices or ‘riddles’ were often incorporated to demonstrate wit and delight visitors. It’s like a never-ending secret you want to keep exploring forever.
The gracious and polished Ricardo will welcome you to the rustic yet elegant Bullskin Tavern, with its brass banister and snug interior. Wrap your fingers around a mug of hot apple cider (add a little spike of rum to make it a hot toddy) on chillier days, or the signature Hillbrook Bellini – Italian prosecco, ruby red grapefruit juice, and cranberry juice – in the summery months. Ah, quite refreshing, full of antioxidants – and bubbles too! What more could one ask for?
How about some history? The benevolent and well-versed Ricardo will gladly oblige. He paints a vivid picture of the life and times of the fabled Hillbrook. This sprawling 2,700-acre tract was originally owned by George Washington’s family. As a surveyor for Lord Fairfax, young George was keenly aware of the lands available for purchase. Consequently, his younger brother Charles Washington settled here in a hunting lodge built in 1762, hence the neighboring Charles Town.
Replenish yourself with breakfast on the bright Sun Porch with an orange blossom spice tea. Enjoy a respite in the parlor or the reading room, tickle the ivories in the tavern, or gather around the cozy hearth for a lively chat which such settings often inspire. A three- or five- course dinner in a historical manor by firelight is, of course, always a great privilege. Not to mention that Chef Justin is “poetry in motion.” Afterwards, head out to the fire pit just behind the Main House and sink deep into a sturdy wooden Adirondack chair complete with your s’mores kit and a quilt from the house to keep you nice and toasty. Out here in the countryside, marvel at the magnitude of the stars in the night sky. If you opt to stay at the Hawthorn House, you can engage in some celestial stargazing with the telescope in the solarium, as an immensity of stars fills the space beyond the stratosphere. Trust me, you’ll sleep well tonight, sinking into the luxurious beds of the inn.
Settle in one of the eclectic guest rooms in the Main House. A stroll down a lighted stone path will lead you to the cottages, set among the evergreens. All are quaint little chambers, with gas log fireplaces, double whirlpool tubs, and private porches overlooking the vast lawn; the Summer Cottage and Winter Cottage have king-sized beds, with the Winter Cottage enjoying the best view. Impeccable touches such as a tiny beveled glass, wrought-iron peekaboo door hole to welcome in fresh air delights both the eye and the senses. This secluded haven is nestled among draping conifers interspersed among old-growth trees – trees which have seen history. What happened here over the centuries? Sometimes I wish I could ask the ancient trees.
The Gate House
Just near the gravel entrance to the grounds is the Gate House, which houses the Serenity Suite, a very comfy nook perched over the Gate House Spa. Bathed in earth tones of slate and sand, it enjoys a large oval soaking tub adorned by a Tiffany-style lamp, a modern gas log fireplace, and even its own private sauna right in the room! Wake up to a cup of tea in a signature Hillbrook mug on your own little deck, gazing out over deer quietly grazing at forest edge. The Gate House Spa is that restful space you’ve been seeking for so long. Polarity with Light and Sound with Board-certified Polarity Practitioner Jenna Newsome of Transformative Energy Healing is a 90-minute session of stimulating, gentle, and restorative touches “to create energetic balance, working to clear the energy source.” Through this soothing and deeply healing experience, the sincere and empathetic Jenna aims to restore vitality and harmony, helping you to express your life’s true path.
The Farmhouse
Venture out just two miles down the road from the inn to The Farmhouse, which resides on an endless apple orchard owned by former Gov. Harry Byrd, now owned by his grandson Harry Byrd III. If you’re lucky, the right smile might get you an apple. There you will encounter a cedar chest of quilts from the quilting center that used to be housed at the Gate House. The Sunset Room has a fireplace and enjoys magnificent sunsets. The second floor Sunrise Suite has two beds and looks out over the apple orchard and cow pastures. Pastoral yet with a very modern interior, (read granite countertops and ultra-modern appliances,) the timber inside was reclaimed from outbuildings on property. The Farmhouse is historical, yet contemporary, with iPad minis – and quilts – everywhere.
The Hawthorn House
Just a stone’s throw away, a gravel road winds through apple orchards to the stately Hawthorn House – an extensively restored yellow clapboard and stone estate. As the first building in Jefferson County, the Hawthorn House, circa 1714, is an authentic historical landmark. Five dormers jut out of the steel roof of this impressive Georgian Colonial. Step inside onto wooden floors with Oriental rugs and be transported back in time by the period exposed log walls and wrought-iron balustrade. The historical flair is palpable here at the Hawthorn House, with its log cabins and historical structures. The main floor South Suite has access to the side porch from a private door and enjoys morning views of the quiet countryside and undulating mountains beyond. The surrounding farms grow apples, peaches, corn, and alfalfa, and house about sixty dairy cows. Then you’ll notice something you almost never see anymore – silos, real silos. Yes, they still exist.
All suites have stone gas fireplaces (larger downstairs) and inspired writing desks, not to mention the delightfully ubiquitous mini iPads. Suites on the main level (downstairs) have sturdy stone walls and immense gas fireplaces. The upper level (East and West Suites) rooms (upstairs) have timbered walls. The North Suite also features inviting window seats and a grand Roman soaking tub.
Ricardo, once an investigative reporter for the Sacramento Bee and now resident innkeeper at the Hawthorn House, describes it as your “home away from home.” Like home with boutique hotel amenities from Gilchrist & Soames, that is. You can rent the whole place and even bring in your own chef, who will delight in the sunlight-flooded country kitchen window. It’s even pet-friendly. Modern amenities for the wired set include an electric dart board, pool, and ping-pong in this wood- and stone-walled cave of a Billiard Room downstairs. The bar in the wine cellar was hewn from a downed tree. The soon-to-be-opened tasting room will offer pairings with chocolate, truffles, and cheeses. How wonderfully decadent! So sip away, if you will.
The Hawthorn House delights in spectacular views of the West Virginia countryside. This landscape is strikingly beautiful all year long, even in leafless interludes, with the stark, dark branches contrasting against the pale winter sky. But just wait for that perfect “pink moment” where the landscape is bathed in a soft light. Behold the breathtaking countryside sunset for yourself. Unwind on the porch or in the gazebo with a nice glass of Hillbrook wine and a quilt on your lap, and watch the glow of the night emerge, perform its graceful watercolor dance across the evening sky, and finally disappear.
Hillbrook Inn is a storybook hideaway. If you close your eyes, you can easily imagine Snow White ambling along among the Old World trees of this enchanted forest, winding her way back to that cottage of curious cohorts. (Apples everywhere! Beware!) And I’m pretty sure Granny lives nearby. You may want to take her a basket of goodies. Check the tavern for treats –maybe homemade chocolate chip cookies, streudel, or bourbon blondies. Or perhaps some chocolate-covered strawberries or cherries. Just remember the old adage – don’t talk to strangers – but here I must say that’s not so easy. The strangers here are just so friendly. Hillbrook might just cause you believe in fairy tales again – at the very least architecturally. So the spell has surely been cast. But please don’t pinch me. I really don’t want to wake up just yet. Oh, right – and they lived happily ever after. You, that is…
